APRIL 19 - TO THE LAND OF SMILES

My mother, brother Van, sis-in-law Konie, and I took off from LAX via Thai Airways at 11:40 pm.  During this 17-hour flight, I tried to watch the first Sherlock Holmes movie starring Robert Downey, Jr. and Jude Law.  However it was apparent I was sleepy since I kept conking out so I slept for the first 5 hours after enjoying a tasty beef bourguignon.  Afterwards I watched War Horse, Immortals, and Mission:Impossible Ghost Protocol.  I watched a good deal of Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy but didn't finish it because we landed.

APRIL 21 - FINAL NIGHT OF PRAYER

As usual, due to crossing the International Date Line, there was no April 20th for us.  We landed at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok at 6:35 am.  My mother was escorted just off the plane via wheelchair thanks to Konie's urging back at LAX.  It was a welcome relief for her.  My father and Aunt Ting picked us up.  Back at Aunt Ting's place we had a breakfast of rice soup, fried eggs, salted fish, and gourami.  While Van and Konie were out and about with Aunt Ting, I had lunch with my parents at Nai Ngieb Ban Suan.  I enjoyed rice with roasted pork ribs, tiny chicken wings, pork satay, and coconut milk custard.

Later that evening we went to Wat Tadtong for the final night of prayer for my late grandmother.  We came to Thailand this time for my grandmother's funeral.  Lots of relatives were in attendance.  I sweated all day all night.  It was ~90 degrees Fahrenheit and humid.

Grandma

 

Prayer

The family

My parents, brother Van, and I with grandma

Back at Aunt Ting's I was to sleep in her son Songfang's room.  I turned on the air conditioner and it felt good.  After awhile, it made a loud rattling noise as if things were caught in there.  I let it play out and then it was quiet.  While in bed, I don't wear glasses and with the lights out I couldn't see what was going on.  Once the noise was gone, I donned my glasses and on my way to the light switch I felt wet spots on the floor.  When I flipped the switch, the floor and table were covered with ice particles.  I wiped up everything.  So the AC spat out ice.  Hmm...

APRIL 22 - CREMATION

It rained a little this morning.  I got up at around 6 am.  Once the rain subsided, it got hot in a hurry.  During breakfast I caught some of the Dallas Mavericks vs. Chicago Bulls game.  At 9 am I left with Aunt Ting and her friend Mai to Wat Tadtong to offer lunch to ten monks.  Once again lots of relatives were on hand.  There were lots of good eats.  Aunt Ting's favorite fried mussel man was on hand to do his thing.  As it turned out, looks like has has a new young disciple to do all the cooking these days.  Good stuff that I highly recommend if you never had some.  There as also an excellent palo, hor mok, and bua loy.  It was very hot again.  I'm thinking it's in the 100's.  Around 12:10 pm I came home with Songfang, Van, and Konie.  Did nothing then but bask in front of the air conditioner.

Some of the flora at Wat Tadtong

Main altar

Left: Van and I chillin' in the hot sun Right: Fried mussels being cooked

The wonderful food

At 2:56 pm I returned to Wat Tadtong with Aunt Ting, Mai, cousin Thom, and someone named Lek.  There were lots of relatives and some old friends of my dad's.  We went to a designated area where we can burn things.  There we set a paper house and other stuff on fire.  They represent things we are wishing to send to grandma in her next life.

Getting items ready for incinceration

Left: Dad lights the flame Right: On their way to grandma

There was a procession that wheeled grandma's casket around the main altar for three revolutions.  It was led by monks, then grandma, then the masses.  Van got to hold her picture while I took photos and videotaped.

Grandma being wheeled around the altar

Left: Mom walking as part of the procession behind the casket Right: Van holding grandma's picture towards the front of the procession

Grandma was returned to a stand at the cremation altar.  Select individuals were called to be the first to place a monk's robe plus a small corsage-like thing consisting of a flower and incense beneath the casket.  Once done, the rest of the masses then ascended the altar and did the same.  Soon after everyone was done, grandma's casket was moved into the cremation chamber.  Once fire was lit, some of us wished her farewell and hoping the best in the next life.  When I came down I need some time to myself.  I just thought of all the wonderful times we had spent together and how thankful I am to be her grandson.

Attendees

Songfang and P'Maew - two serious photographers

Last moments before cremation

That evening we had dinner at Honmono Sushi.  In attendance were Van, Konie, Aunt Ting, Mai, Thom, Paega, Songfang and his friend Pieak.  It was pretty good but pricey.

Dinner at Honmono Sushi

Monks in attendance of grandma's cremation included Venerable Settakit, Vichanao, Pramot, and Sombat whom I first met when I was a monk.

APRIL 23 - THE BANGPAKONG RIVER AND WAT SAMANRATTANARAM

It rained pretty heavily and for quite some time in the morning.  I awoke in the middle of the night in pain as I tweaked my lower back.  I tried feverishly to stretch it out but the pain wasn't completely gone.  I finally arose from bed at 7:25 am to find out that we were leaving in 5 minutes.  I quickly threw on whatever I could grab.  I went with my parents to Wat Tadtong.

Once there along with some family members, the bony remains of grandma was laid out in a human form.  Each of us took a bottle of oil and sprinkled it from feet to head and then hand to head while wishing her the best in her new life.  My mom and Aunt Ting then tossed coins to the awaiting masses.  The leftover flowers in the receptacle that held the coins and flowers were then spread onto grandma's remains.  Finally all were wrapped up and placed into an urn.  A smaller portion was folded in a cloth and will be taken back to Aunt Ting's.

Left: Grandma's remains Right: Grandma with coins and petals

Left: Aunt Ting tossing coins to anxious mass Right: Grandma in a wrapped urn

My parents, Thom, and I drove to Wat Panitaram in Chachoengsao.  I carried the urn with me.  I told grandma in my mind that this is our last road trip...that this time we're going home.  Chachoengsao is where my father's side of the family is from.  My grandma along with my dad and Aunt Ting lived here for many years.

Though the rain has stopped since early morning, the remaining clouds did provide us a tad of relief i.e. the day was not as hot as it could have been.  I'm still sweating a storm but at least it's not scorching.

At Wat Panitaram there were a good number of relatives present plus my father's old friends Somsit and Mayuri.  This temple is situated next to the Bangpakong River.  At the little dock nearby was a small boat with a long motor.  Besides the driver, only two persons could fit so it was decided it would be my father and Aunt Ting.  They boarded boat which took them towards the other bank.  Once in the middle of the water the boat stopped.  My father and aunt said a last blessing and then Aunt Ting lowered the urn into the river.  Grandma has returned home.

Left: Pier at Wat Panitaram Right: Relatives, friends, and family near the pier at Wat Panitaram

Dad and Aunt Ting taking grandma to the Bangpakong River.  She will be released here.

After the boat brought them back, we all had lunch inside the conference room at the temple.  There were lots of dishes that came one after another...Chinese style.  What I recalled were roast duck, hoi jaw, three-flavored fish, a steamed fish (that had lots of bones), crab fried rice, fish maw soup, bua loy, some sort of seafood dish, and po taek (I think).  That steamed fish was nearly the end of me.  I didn't know initially how many little bones there were in the meat so when I swallowed it, a bone got lodged in my throat.  I could not force it out so I excused myself from the table and went to the men's room.  There I proceeded to vigorously reach down my throat to pull it out.  That was not fun.

Left: lunch Right: Sleepy Songfang

We then went to Pee Maew's place.  She has a collection of dhatus (a.k.a. Buddha relics) at her place.  It was quite impressive.  What I liked was that the room for the dhatus is air conditioned.  I stayed in the practically the whole time.

P'Maew's collection of dhatus and Buddha statues

The clouds have gone away.  There is no more shielding from the scorching sun.  My folks, Aunt Joon, and I then went to Wat Samanrattanaram.  Also there were Pee Jim, Pee Jam, and Pee Maew.  Pee Pod and Pee Pann came too in a separate vehicle.  This temple features large statues.  The first one is the largest statue of Rahula in Thailand.  Ancient Thais believed that the lunar eclipse is caused by Rahula swallowing the moon.  This statue features Rahula with the moon partially in its mouth.  Near Rahula was Indra riding a three-headed elephant.  Amidst Indian music in the background, we made our way to the largest Ganesha statue in the world.  The pedestal that Ganesha lies on is a store that pretty much sells anything and everything Ganesha.  It was nice and cool.  My mom doesn't fare well with high heat so she decided to stay here until we were finished.  Aunt Joon stayed with her.

Indra

Largest Rahula statue in Thailand

Inside the Ganesha shop

Left: Ganesha and Guan Im Right: Outside of Ganesha shop which is the pedestal for Ganesha

World's largest statue of Ganesha.  In front of it are people whispering their hopes and aspirations into giant rats' ears.

My father manned the video camera while I took care of the digital camera.  Near Ganesha were rat statues.  People would whisper their desires in the ears of the rats and then placed or poured something onto it.  I don't know the real significance of the rats but have a theory.  I believe rats were the animal symbol of Shiva so asking one is like asking Shiva.

We then walked over to a very large statue of Guam Im, a Chinese Bodhisattva.  The areas around it were still under construction so we didn't get too close to it.

Guan Im

My father and I then walked the opposite direction to a covered plaza that featured a large plate with a pretty large alms bowl in the middle.  According to the nearby sign, its the largest plate of mango and sticky rice in the world.  I guess it comes in handy for the mango festival.  Today it challenges people to toss coins into the alms bowl stating if you manage to get 3 in there then your wish will come true sooner than expected.  If you get 2 then it will come when expected.  If you get 1 then it will come later than expected.  If you don't make any, then it won't come true.  I didn't use any of my own coins.  I just grabbed any in the plate that's within reach and made 3 in 4 shots.

The large plate

We stopped by a nearby pavilion with 5 Buddha statues and a small Ganesha riding a large rat.  We got candles, incense, coins, and gold leaf and made an offering to each.  The candle we placed where designated.  The incense we lit and placed in a large incense urn.  We affixed gold leaf to each of the 5 Buddhas and placed 4 coins in each of the alms bowl next to each Buddha.  The Ganesha statue riding a giant ratis over 1,000 years old.

Left: 5 Buddha statues Right: 1,000 year-old Ganesha riding a giant rat

We walked back to the car.  The heat was really something.  I haven't sweated this heavily in a very long time.  Due to this my dad and I each got a home made coconut ice cream from a nearby vendor.  We also passed a "chick seer".  Basically there are cards holding your fortune.  A baby chicken would then pull a card with its beak and that's your fortune.  I didn't partake but it looks interesting and amusing.

Baby chick fortune teller.  Do you believe?

We left the temple.  En route back my mom wanted kanom pia so we stopped at a place called Tung Seng Jua.  My dad and I just bought beverages due to the heat.

Finally we made it back to Aunt Ting's.  There my father, Thom, and I flipped though the TV channels and caught the exciting conclusions to Dante's Peak and Reign of Fire.

In the evening for dinner we went to an Italian eatery called Bacco.  It's in the neighborhood where Dr. Uan and his parents stay.  They were present along with Mai, Thom, Van, Konie, Paega, and Songfang.  I had a minestrone, chicken involtino, and a popeye calzone (ham, spinach, mozzarella).  It was all pretty good.

APRIL 24 - PHRA MAIN

I woke up in the middle of the night with a pretty severe crimp on the right side of my neck.  I immediately replaced the pillow I was using with a flatter one.  This would be a pain that would bother me the rest of the day.  It rained again this morning.

My parents, Van, and I went to Foodland Supermarket on Ladprao to meet with my mom's sisters Aunt Taew and Tim.  We had lunch at Took Lae Dee restaurant inside the market.  Afterwards mom shopped for some items.

We came back to Aunt Ting's.  Konie was out and about with Aunt Ting.  Van took advantage of the swimming pool.  It's a great way to chill out from the hot days.  I deferred this time because I was headed out soon.

At 4:55 pm Pee Pod's driver picked up my parents and me.  We headed for Chulalongkorn University to pick up Pee Pod who is a professor there.  We then went to a renowned open space called Sanamluang.  There we went to check out the Royal Crematorium set up there.  It was erected this time to cremate Princess Bejaratana Rajasuda, the only daughter of King Rama VI.  The cremation took place on April 9th.  However the crematorium was still there.

Democracy Monument - passed by it along the way

P'Pod, dad, mom, and I at Sanamluang

It was nice to arrive in the late afternoon because there wasn't scorching sun anymore.  This crematorium (called Phra Main) is a great example of classical Thai architecture.  It was very ornate, tall, and pretty.  One one side of it was a beautiful array of flowers.  One the opposite end was a picture of the late princess with Wat Phra Kaew in the background.  There was a warm wind blowing about throughout our time there.  In the sky were several kites including a jula (known from Thai kite fights) and a large cobra kite.  When the sky darkened into night, all the kites but the cobra one had lights that lit up so they appeared as flickering light patterns in the night sky.

Left: Giant cobra kite Right: Giant cobra kite with three lit jula kites

Floral arrangement

 

Phra Main

Left: Mom with picture of the late Princess Bejaratana Rajasuda Right: P'Pod with the departed royal highness

There was music playing throughout.  We first thought it was recorded music.  Once we made it all the way around Phra Main, we heard applause after a song was completed.  That's when we knew there was an actual orchestra and singer there.  We went to check it out.  My mother really enjoyed it.

Live music and singer

As usual my dad manned the video camera and I snapped photos.  All of us really enjoyed it due to the ornate beauty of Phra Main.  It was great that Pee Pod invited us to see it because a couple days later it was taken apart.  These royal crematoriums are only erected in time of need.

We had dinner at S&P near the banks of the Chao Phraya River.  I enjoyed a kao soy with chicken leg.

Once back at Aunt Ting's, I conked out in bed.

APRIL 25 - AN AFTERNOON WITH NU

For breakfast Konie made pad see ew for Van, me, and herself.

At around 11:20 am Nu, a friend of Paega, picked up the three of us plus Paega for lunch.  It was a slow drive through the streets of Bangkok.  It also didn't help that Nu's air conditioner was either not-so-great or needed a freon refill.  It did allow us to catch up on old times.  Nu visited us back in the latter quarter of 2011.  Konie spent most of the time with her and I took her to Disneyland one day.

We arrived at Siam Paragon which is a mall.  Inside we went to Four Seasons, a Chinese restaurant.  We had to wait a little bit before there was space.  During the wait, we saw my Aunt Tim just leaving and all were happily surprised to see one another.  Finally seated, we enjoyed roast duck, barbecue pork, tofu, fish, Peking duck, and fried squid with spicy salt.  Food was quite tasty.

Lunch at Four Seasons with Paega, Nu, Konie, and Van

Still at Siam Paragon we shopped at Gourmet Market as Konie needed to pick up some needed items.  I bought the same body wash for Songfang to replenish the bottle he had which I had nearly used up.  We then had dessert at Swensens, an ice cream place.  Konie, Nu, and Paega had what's called the mango sensation.  I had a banana float while Van enjoyed a sundae.  Simply put, Van and I followed wherever the girls wanted to go.

Paega wanted us to try what she regards as the best fresh spring rolls in Thailand.  Due to this we stopped at the Bangkok Polo Club.  It was very good.  The girls also enjoyed some durian ice cream.  We returned to Aunt Ting's at 5:25 pm.

An hour later Aunt Ting took my parents and I to dinner.  Van and Konie declined as they are still full.  Instead they took a dip in the pool which we are grateful Aunt Ting has because it's so hot here especially this time of the year.

We had dinner at a Chinese restaurant called Boonpochana.  She wanted us to try it because she felt the fare may be a bit different from what we are accustomed to.  We had duck intestine, yum with tofu and thousand year-old eggs, fried rice, boiled chicken with lemon sauce, and sauteed beans.  The food was good.  The duck intestine was exquisite especially the broth it came it.

APRIL 26 - KAO MUN GAI AND MORE CHINESE FOOD

I woke up in the middle of the night sweating.  It turned out the air conditioner died on me.  I moved to the room next to Songfang's.  The pad offered virtually no support so I'm essentially sleeping on the hard wooden floor.  Due to this my sleep was very inconsistent.  I awoke sore in many places.

After breakfast Van and Konie went with Aunt Ting.  My folks and I went to visit Aunt Taew.  We dropped off some mangosteens that Uncle Piak dropped off for us.  All of us then went to lunch at one of the Kao Mun Gai (chicken and rice) places opened by noted Thai comedian Koh Tee.  It was a good meal as you get a good deal of food at an affordable price.  Kitchen area is visible to all as I can see that business is good.  There is nonstop chopping of chicken and putting it and rice in boxes as to-go orders never seem to end.  The eating area here is roomy and air conditioned.  I wanted to try this when I heard of it and wasn't disappointed.  I look forward to coming back the next time I come.

Kho Kao Mun Gai

In the afternoon Van and I swam from about 2 pm to 4 pm.  At 6 pm Pieak drove my folks and I to Hong Deng Long for another Chinese dinner.  Aunt Ting drove Van and Konie.  Paega and Dr. Uan drove themselves.  Songfang arrived when we were all pretty much done eating.  There was tasty fried shrimp, soups (egg drop, hot and sour, won ton), special half deep fried mini tsa chiu bao, sauteed beans, and much more.  It was scrumptious.

Aunt Ting drove my folks and I back home.

APRIL 27 - TERMINAL 21 AND MEAL

Top put on more sheets onto my sleeping pad for more cushion.  It's more bearable but still not as comfy as a futon.

Konie went shopping with Aunt Ting.  My parents embarked to Wat Mahathat.  I decided to check out the new mall Terminal 21 and invited Van.

Top dropped us off at Huamark station.  We took the Airport Link and connected with the Skytrain to Terminal 21.  This is not as big as the other Bangkok malls but was pretty neat in that each floor was was a different city.  They were Paris, Rome, London, Tokyo, Istanbul, and San Francisco.  Van had an iced coffee at an Auntie Anne's stand.  I had a very syrupy strawberry lemonade.

Terminal 21

On the London floor we hit the men's room.  It was quite neat as it was designed to resemble the London Underground, the famed subway there.

San Francisco occupies two floors separated as Street and Pier.  It is the dining floors of this mall.  We saw a Yoshinoya and ate there.  The food is the same but everything is served in porcelain bowls, not Styrofoam boxes.

Yoshinoya at Terminal 21

Afterwards Van took me to Mango Tango for dessert.  I had a Mango Delight which is mango with mango ice cream smothered with mango sauce.  Van tried to pay with a 1,000 baht bill.  The cashier asked if he had something smaller.  He wound up paying with smaller bills.  However the cashier did not return the 1,000 baht bill.  Van asked for it back.  They swore they handed it to him.  We checked our pockets, money clips, and wallets.  Sure enough it wasn't there.  Van figure it's not worth it to make too big a deal of it because it's not enough money to fight over.  We were both upset.  We finished our dessert and walked out.  Van said that's the most expensive dessert ever.

Elevated walkways

BTS Skytrain

He then asked what else I wanted to do.  I decided on checking out the Victory Monument to which there is a train stop so we once again boarded the BTS Skytrain.  From the elevated walkway that goes around the monument we were able to view and snap some photos.

Victory Monument

I don't know what the heck these guys are

We then walked to the next station.  Along the way we passed by the Channel 5 TV station which belongs to the army.  There was a tank parked out in front of the gate.  We finally arrived at Sanam Pao station.  We took the train back to Huamark Station.  Van asked if I wanted to take a taxi or walk.  Despite the record heat I have no idea to this day why in the world I decided to hoof it back.  That was a bad idea.  I sweated nonstop as my gray shirt kept getting darker and darker as it got more drenched.  We stopped at Seven-Eleven for water.  Towards the last corner Van dumped the rest of his water on me.  Man, that felt good.

At the Army-run Channel 5

Hoofin' it in the hot sun

We finally got back to Aunt Ting's.  Van immediately got into the pool.  I rested in front of an air conditioner for a while then joined him.  My goodness I'm overjoyed there is a swimming pool here.  Konie later joined us in the pool.  

Tonight there will be a big dinner as relatives gather.  Uncle Piak was there first.  He chewed the fat with my folks.  Aunt Joon also came over.  Also present were Pee Pod, Pee Pann along with my friend Todd and his girl Ooh, Pieak, Nu, and Aunt Ting's friend Mai.  Konie's friends Nun, Oay, and Muay were there, too.  Jap and Jimmy, the singers I befriended the year before, were also present.  There was tons of food - satay, ribs, papaya salad, chicken wings, fudge-covered rice kristy treats,  cupcakes, ice cream with french toast, kai toon (steamed eggs with ground meat), spicy noodles, and much more.

 

Left: Songfang, Paega, and Nu Right: Nu with her potent potable

Left: Todd and Ooh Right: Jimmy, P'Pod, and mom

Left: Nun, [I don't know}, Oay Right: Me with Jap and Jimmy

Left: Dr. Uan digging in Right: Busy kitchen

Satay and Konie's treats

Later Pieak and Songfang went to watch "Cabin in the Woods".  I stayed to keep entertaining guests.  After midnight, once almost all were gone, I conked out.

APRIL 28 - LAST DAY

This is the first time since arriving in Bangkok that I actually slept throughout the night.  It's nice for this night but worrisome since later tonight I'll be flying back.  After breakfast I packed.

We all joined Aunt Tim, Aunt Taew, and Konie's friends Nun and Oay for lunch at Chatuchak Cafe at the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Hotel.  It was an all-you-can-eat buffet.  Most of the food was Thai.  It was quite good.

Lunch at Chatuchak Cafe at Centara Grand Hotel

Artwork at the Centara Grand Hotel

Aunt Taew and my parents

That evening Van, Konie, Aunt Joon, and I took off on Thai Airways around 7:56 pm from Suvarnabhumi Airport.  I watched the conclusion of Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.  On this flight I would also watch The Artist and Quantum of Solace.  I watched most of Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol before we landed.  I ate chicken palo with noodles and ravioli for my meals.  I actually slept a lot on this flight which was great.  It was indeed a very good flight.

We arrived at LAX in the evening.  Van, Konie, and I then drove home.

I will always miss my grandmother.  She lived a long, happy life.  I am privileged to know her like I do.

Farewell grandma